Installation
1
Remove the bed (4) T40 torx, both seats (rear two seats in a four seater), both firewall panels.
2
Remove the turbo and exhaust heat shields using a 10mm socket.
3
Remove the charge tube using a 11mm socket to loosen both clamps on the turbocharger and throttle body. Disconnect the MAP sensor and blow off valve/ boost recirculating valve. (this vehicle already has an EVP charge tube and BOV).
4
Remove the V-Flow using a 11mm socket to loosen both clamps on the turbocharger and airbox. Unplug the MAF sensor.
5
Remove both upper and lower turbo heat shields using a 10mm socket.
6
Spray the (4) screws holding the exhaust to the turbocharger with penetrating oil. Do this a minimum of three times while you continue working.
7
Drain the coolant reservoir, first pull the pressure cap off releasing any built-up pressure. Pull the bottom left hose off and catch the coolant in a bucket.
8
Remove the (4) M6 allen bolts holding the exhaust system to the turbocharger.
9
Remove the turbocharger bracket. Remove the top bolts holding the bracket to the turbocharger. The 10mm head circled below has a 13mm nut on the back side. You will need a 13mm open end wrench. On the bottom of the turbocharger bracket you need to loosen (6) 15mm bolts. Only remove one bolt circled in red below on both sides.
10
Remove the oil feed line from the turbocharger using a 13mm socket. Keep the banjo bolt and copper washers. Use a 15mm wrench to remove the spacer bolt holding the bracket to turbocharger.
11
Remove the oil feed line from the turbocharger bracket, use a T25 socket. Tilt the bracket towards the front of the vehicle and remove.
12
Remove and label the wastegate and boost reference vacuum lines from the turbocharger.
13
Pinch off the coolant lines going to the oil cooler. Below the “T” fitting. Remove the coolant line from the “T” going to the turbocharger. Keep the other end connected to turbo.
14
Remove the oil drain hose from the oil drainpipe.
15
Remove the coolant feed line from the reservoir to turbocharger. (Figure 12).
16
Remove (4) 13mm nuts holding the turbocharger to the block. Remove (2) M6 Allen screws holding the turbocharger to the block. Remove turbocharger.
17
With the new turbocharger on the bench, slide the supplied 3/4" hose onto the new drainpipe. Secure it with a 30.1mm pinch clamp. Install the 3/4"-5/8” barb into the 3/4" drain hose. Also use a 30.1mm pinch clamp.
18
Remove the OEM coolant “T” coming from the oil cooler and install supplied “T” fitting. Reuse the self-tightening clamps for the new barb.
20
On the turbo support bracket, you will need to grind a larger radius around the top support hole. See photo below where the mark is located.
21
Install the new turbocharger, if the head pipe gasket is damaged you must replace it. Torque specifications are below for turbo.
22
Install the supplied 7.50” water hose line from the coolant straight barb to the “T” fitting. Use pinch clamps to secure. Connect the OEM oil drain hose to the turbo.
23
Install the supplied 15.0” water hose line from the “J” coolant fitting to coolant reservoir tank. Use supplied 22mm pinch clamps to secure.
24
Reinstall the turbocharger support bracket, push against the turbocharger making sure you ground enough off. Tighten the lower support bolts (42 ft/lbs) and reinstall top hardware. Screw in the spacer bolt using a 15mm wrench. Screw the 10mm head screw into the spacer bolt. Reinstall the turbo oil feed line reusing the banjo bolt and (2) copper washers. Torque banjo to 33 ft/lbs.
25
Secure the oil feed line and coolant hoses to the turbocharger support bracket. Remove the coolant clamps from the vehicle.
26
Reinstall the wastegate and boost reference vacuum hoses to the new turbocharger.
26
Reinstall the 3.0” exhaust to the turbocharger. If the exhaust gasket is not useable, replace it. If you are installing new exhaust, please find those instructions on our website. Place anti seize on the threads and torque to 18 ft/lbs.
1
With the engine cold, spray the injector valleys and fuel rail with parts cleaner. Use compressed air to finish. If you don’t do this step and you remove the injectors, debris will fall into the engine and plenum.
2
Remove the plastic safety retainer on the fuel rail. Remove the fuel line from the fuel rail (red arrow). Fuel may seep out of the fuel rail, and have rags close by.
3
Remove the injector electrical adaptors (green arrow) and loosen the (2) fuel rail screws (yellow arrow). Remove the fuel rail with injectors attached.
4
Remove the old injectors and place in a plastic bag. Use dielectric grease on the O- rings on the new injectors and slide into the fuel rail.
5
Reinstall the fuel rail with supplied hardware. Place the spacers between the fuel rail and plenum. Torque down to 7 ft/lb. NOTE: the injectors will still move when torqued down, this is correct. They are sealed.
6
Reinstall the fuel hose to the fuel rail. Make sure the fuel line is all the way on.
1
Pinch off all coolant lines going to the engine and valve cover. Remove the coolant reservoir cap if you haven’t done that already. Once all coolant lines are pinched off remove the valve cover coolant line. NOTE: there may be pressure behind this hose, cap the barb off with a silicone cap.
2
Disconnect the spark plug coil packs and loosen the coil packs with a 8mm socket. Pull the coil packs out of the valve cover.
3
Remove the (4) valve cover screws using a T-40 torxs. Keep the rubber gromets. Remove the valve cover and gasket.
4
Remove the crankcase position sensor using an 8mm socket. Find TDC and slide the cam locking tool into place. Tool Number: PU-50563-1. To double check TDC you can find a (+) sign looking through the crankcase position sensor port.
5
Remove the cam chain tensioner using a M6 Allen. Check gasket for any tears.
6
Remove the (2) retaining bolts holding the top guide in place, using a 8mm socket.
7
Clean the cam sprockets and chain. With a sharpie make (2) marks on each gear and chain for installation purposes.
8
Place a 22mm wrench on the intake cam, spin the clutch to release pressure off the valves while loosening the intake cam sprocket. Remove the sprocket once hardware is removed.
9
Loosen both camshaft carriers using a 8mm socket. Remove carriers and cam shafts from the engine. Zip tie the cam chain up to the bed mount so the chain doesn’t come off the crank.
10
Remove one head bolt and replace it with a stud at a time so the cylinder head never has more than one bolt/stud loose at a time. Lather both ends of the stud with supplied ARP assembly lube. Hand tighten the stud until it bottoms out. Place assembly lube on both sides of the washer, place the washer on the stud. Finger tighten the nut onto the stud and torque to 50 ft/lbs. See torque sequence and specifications below.
1
50 ft/lb 50 ft/lb.
2
68 ft/lb 72 ft/lb.
3
85 ft/lb 95 ft/lb.
1
10 ft/lb 10 ft/lb.
11
Reinstall the camshafts and camshaft carriers. Snug up the camshaft carriers. Install cam shaft timing plate back into the camshafts. Verify TDC mark on the flywheel making sure the engine is still timed. Install the intake sprocket back onto the intake camshaft. Make sure your sharpie marks align properly. Apply red Loctite to the sprocket hardware and torque camshaft sprocket to 14 ft/lb. Reinstall the outer camshaft carrier and chain guide. Torque all camshaft carrier bolts to 7 ft/lb.
12
Remove the spring retainer bolt out of the spring tensioner and push the adjuster all the way in. Install the cam chain tensioner into the block and torque the mounting bolts to 7 ft/lb. Install the tensioner spring, washer and retainer bolt. Torque spring tensioner bolt to 12 ft/lb.
13
Rotate the crankshaft two full revolutions to verify camshaft timing.
14
Reinstall the valve cover gasket, place a silicone based liquid gasket around the two lobes before installing. Place the valve cover over the camshafts and torque (4) valve cover screws to 7 ft/lb.
15
Remove the spark plugs and install supplied EVP spark plugs. EVP gapped plugs are .016-.018”. Torque plugs to 9 ft/lb.
1
Remove the OEM MAP sensor from the plenum. Disconnect from the wiring harness. Install the supplied 4 bar MAP sensor into the plenum. If it doesn’t align properly to the threads, remove the insert from the sensor. Apply dielectric grease to the MAP sensor O-ring. NOTE: we have seen misalignment with threads. Install the new MAP sensor and supplied wiring harness. Connect wiring harness back into the OEM plug.
1
Install the supplied 4 bar MAP sensor into the charge tube. Apply dielectric grease to the O-ring for installation. Use suppled M5 screw to fasten down MAP sensor. Install the charge tube onto the turbocharger and throttle body. Reuse OEM hardware, use an 11mm deep well socket. Install EVP blow off valve or boost recirculation valve. Run supplied vacuum hose back to the plenum barb and “T” into the OEM hose.
2
Before installing the EVP V-Flow its easier to block off the crankcase vent and boost recirculating valve ports before installation. If you aren’t running a catch can or blow off valve you can keep the ports open. Install the V-Flow onto the turbocharger and air box. Tighten down with a 11mm socket. Reinstall the OEM MAF sensor in the stock location.
1
Remove the OEM fuel pump assembly out of your vehicle. It will be located underneath the passenger seat (back passenger seat if 4-seater). DO NOT break the green/blue safety clips holding the fuel lines on. It is easiest to remove the fuel pump assembly nut with EVP tool (953RU0305).
2
Remove the float sending unit from the OEM fuel pump. On the XP Turbo/S assembly use a small screwdriver to push the black clip inward, push the sending unit upward. On a Pro XP/Turbo R use a small screwdriver and push the sending unit downward. Remove.
3
Cut (3) hoses attached to the fuel hat. (2) white hoses are supports and (1) hose is for the fuel pump. If there is a pitch clamp, remove that as well. On the Pro XP/Turbo R assembly you will NOT reuse the spring.
4
Remove the positive and ground wire from the pump. You can now remove the OEM fuel hat assembly from the fuel pump.
5
Cut the OEM power and ground terminals off from the fuel hat. Measure how much wire you will need to cut off the supplied pig tail connector.
6
Cut the supplied heat shrink in half, you should only need 1” per wire. Slide heat shrink onto each wire. Solder black to black and red to red.
7
Connect the solder connector to the pump. It will click once installed all the way. Install the supplied 13.3mm pinch clamp onto the fuel pump hose. If XP Turbo/S assembly, you will need to heat up all (3) hoses equally until they look shiny (DO NOT OVER HEAT). (If Pro XP/Turbo R assembly, you can install the black corrugated fuel hose first with a 13.3mm pinch clamp and install the supports together.) Once all (3) hoses are heated install the fuel hat barbs onto the white hoses. Make sure the float wires are in between both support hoses, they will lay in the half moon on the surge tank. MAKE SURE all (3) hoses are pressed on all the way!
1
Double check all hoses, clamps, float, and wiring harness before installing. Make sure to reuse the OEM circle gasket between the fuel hat and fuel tank.
2
Always install the fuel float first and fuel sock second. You can also remove the float arm from the assembly and install into the tank. Install the surge tank into the fuel tank about 2.0”. Then reinstall the float arm to the float assembly. See below.
3
Install the O-ring gasket between the fuel tank and fuel hat. Install the fuel pump nut and keep the same orientation if it is a XP Turbo/S model. If a Pro XP/Turbo R you will flip the fuel hat orientation 180-degrees. This will allow your float to read properly. You may need to clock your fuel line in the OEM holder.
4
Locate your fuse box (underneath steering wheel). Remove the fuel pump fuse and install supplied 20amp fuse.
5
Test the fuel pump by turning on the key and listen for the pump to activate. Do this several times to prime the fuel system. Check for leaks. If there are no leaks, re-install the access cover and passenger seat.
Note: This product is exempt from the emission standards and related requirements of 40 C.F.R. § 1051 as provided by 40 C.F.R. § 1051.620, and California law [e.g., vehicle code§§ 27156 and 38391]. This product is sold only for use in connection with EPA certified, purpose-built, nonroad vehicles used solely for closed course, nonroad competition/racing and not used for any recreational purpose or on public highways or right of ways maintained by and open to the public. This product is sold only in connection with machines that do not fall under state and/or federal noise or emission standards/regulations. Purchasers who/that purchase this product represent and warrant that the product is purchased only in connection with EPA -certified, emission-regulations-exempt and noise- regulations-exempt competition/racing vehicles as interpreted under applicable state and/or federal law. Questions: Call Evolution Powersports at (715) 247-3862.